Your multimeter has probably got a 20V DC setting - that's what you want to use to test if the cable is live or not. Red to the wire, black to something metal - a screw or something should be fine.

I'd get rid of the scotchblocks if you can - personal opinion, but I hate them. If you've got 123 ignition fitted then you don't need to worry about having the ignition on to listen to the stereo if the engine isn't running, since the ei cuts power to the coil after a short while IIRC.

the fuse in the headunit is just to protect the unit itself - I've had a number of wires frazzle before, so I'd be putting a fuse as close to the battery as possible if you're running a live feed through the bulkhead.

The blade fuse in the back often has two positions,
You've got 2 positive wires one to a permant feed one to ignition. Normally yellow is permanent.
Anyway by moving this fuse you can only need to use one wire as a permanent feed and ignore the other!
Easier also!
There's a million ways to do it

I also dont use scotch blocks

I always use heat shrink connectors there expensive but worth every penny IMO buy every has there signature in eltrics

James, if I could ask a favour, could you take a picture to show how you connected the live feed to the battery? That would be really useful for me, thanks.

I have two fuse boxes on the D*lly, there are some blank spaces in there, I guess that would be a good place to locate the new fuse. Or is that an unnecessary fiddle?

I removed those fuse boxes
I will take a picture Tomorow in te light or you yes

Thanks for that. I find pictures much more helpful than instruction booklets. The exception is those very grainy black and white pictures in the Haynes manuals where you can't see what the feck is going on.

very sorry about the delay the recent hetic lifestyle has dragged me away from important things

anyway here goes

these are the connectors i use (heat shirnk butt and ring type) everyone has there preference, this is my personal but theres a million ways to wire things together, and i find these the best, (They withstand the marine environment perfect as i use them in my boat, so they can easily cope with the auto environment )


various shots of battery
your battery wotn be like this, with 2 posts for each terminal, but you can attach the ring type on to the screws on the clamps or onto the nut and bolt on clamp...


this is where i got the wire through the bulkhead


the new fuses i put in, i always use 30amp fuse holders, but obviously not always a 30 amp fuse there cheap on ebay,

in conclusion to the above photos,
you can see i have many wires coming off the positive terminal, and negative, now two of these on each is for the headlight relays, and the others on positive are for
1. fag lighter adapter thing
2. cd player
3. redundant wire currently about to be turned into a live feed for pc speakers im about to fit tomorow morning finally

hope thats any help
any questions feel free

That is very useful, thank you James. Think I'll get down to Maplins next, I assume they'll be good for the fuse box.

Will this do for the fuse job?

Water-Resistant Maxi Fuse Holder
£1.99 at Maplins

yes, although i use the type with mini blad fuses as aposed to the standard larger ones slightly less bulky
there availble on ebay for about 2 pounds including postage, or if you buy more you can get it cheapei gor, t 6 for about 8 pounds if i remeber

you dont persifically need to go to maplins theres tons of other places such as auto factors and halfrauds etc, or ebay is by far the cheapest far the cheapest.