You're right, it was 2CViking, fixed that. Thanks.

This ^^^ if the peeling paint has stopped up the drain hole and pipe from the bottom of the housing.

if the drain hole/pipe is clear and the reed valve is sitting flat, its the engine.

Engine must be getting pretty hot if paint has come off - mine looks like new after 15000kms and that includes hot drive to Spain (not for world meeting) so nothing wrong with design of breather or build. Best around in my opnion

-------

Keith Would, who some of you may know, recently sent me a letter for the ccc mag. - part of which may be useful information here...

The vent valve question isn't quite as simple as it's sometimes portrayed. The first essential is to test the valve before inserting hand in pocket. A water test gauge is needed. Mine (see photo') took minutes to make years ago. Get the engine ticking over , remove the dipstick, push the pipe into the tube and watch the water levels. A new valve should give over 20cm between the two levels. Citroën stated a minimum of 6cm, I prefer to see at least 10cm. If it is less than this or the water doesn't move, or is promptly ejected from the tube you have a problem.

Refit the dipstick, remove the vent pipe and place your hand over the outlet. If you can feel a powerful in and out rush of air similar to the effect of opening the oil filler then the valve has failed and an in-line valve may well do the trick. If the flow from the valve is very weak or non-existent then it is blocked with carbon and only replacement will do.

The life of a valve depends entirely on the frequency of oil changes. If an engine is neglected, the build up of combustion acids and the resultant black sludge destroy the valve material and block the airways. I recently tested a valve that has done 100,000miles in 25 years and it still gave 20cm. All the car's life the oil has never done more than 5,000miles and often less. In my opinion cheaper oil changed at 3,000mile intervals is better than expensive stuff left in for a decade.

It would be prudent to use LHM instead of water in the manometer. I wouldn't like to suck water into my crankcase

No mention of that other requirement in Citroen's description of how to test the breather; whatever the engine speed, there should not be any crankcase pressure?
In my opinion, that's just as important as the test at tickover speed and is even more useful when carried out with the engine under load...

Also, in addition to regular oil changes, an engine should not be allowed to either overheat or run too cold, as both of those will have an adverse effect on the useful life of a breather.

ken

the 2cv Gods work in mysterious ways

our "rebuilt" engine had breather issues and was spewing oilduring qualifying after 20mins on the track there was nearly a Litre in the catch tank

The usual discussion ensued as to what it could be and what the cure was - most of it mirroring this thread with the engine builder being insistent that it was not the rings. Upshot was i got up at 6 in the morning to pull the engine and investigate, the only thing i could find was that the middle rings(re used) had been fitted upside down and the bores had not been properly honed but simpy "scored" using emery paper by hand which follows the dips and lows of the wear area.

a tickle with a proper hone and new rings - a re valved breather and low and behold after the carnage that was our race - approx 1 level tablespoon of oil in the catch "tank"

pictures to follow?

I think I would sack the engine builder!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sean sacks himself most nights...
:-p