Wasn't the original fuel pipe 5.5mm ID, which was a good push fit on the 6mm stubs?
The absence of clips has never caused any problems during the 30 years I've been working on A series cars...

If you replace the original bands on the carb intake hose with jubilee clips, don't be tempted to tighten them too much.
That can cause the hose to grip so tightly, especially at the carb end, that its life is reduced.
I prefer to use a clip only at the air filter box end, for that reason.

Pity you cannot check the corner weights 'as delivered'.
There was a post recently, on another forum, in which someone reckoned their dealer found so many cars with suspension settings so badly adjusted that he was obliged to do it all again.
Sounded to me like a right load of c*bbl#rs...

Just remembered something else.
Could you possibly photograph the track adjustment assemblies, showing the relative positions of the slots in the clamps and those in the adjustment 'barrels'?

Thanks,
ken

I think you mean heights Ken.

Nope,
definitely corner weights, as it's possible to have a car sitting level across its axles, but with far too much weight being carried across a diagonal.
That's something which is neglected far too often when a car has its chassis changed, or work done on the suspension.

For ride heights which are miles out on rebuilt cars, you have to look in a northerly direction from your location.

ken.

How do you get around that problem? Even the Citroen manual only seems to mentions height adjustments. With four springs in the canisters, each may be slightly different in stiffness.

Ken - that was one of my first thoughts. I took a picture but the autofocus focussed on the driveshaft. I will have another go in a week or tow. One of the things I did notice was that the clamps were pointing upward at around 2 o' clock.

Even if a spring settles slightly due to being overloaded at some point in its life, the actual 'spring rate' stays the same.

For late model 2CVs, the spring rates were around 880 lb/inch at the rear and 800 lb/inch at the front.
( That's 'shorter spring at the rear', btw.)

To check corner weights, buy something like this...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CORNER-WEIGHT-GAU ... _500wt_949

...or use the tripod method, which involves placing a jack exactly central under one end of the car and raising the wheels at that end off the ground.
Compare the heights under each side of the chassis at the end which is in contact with the ground and either reduce that which is higher or increase that which is lower.

Repeat as necessary, then switch to the other end.

ken.

I was just going to ask, which part in the middle of an original chassis is strong enough to take a jack, but then thought just put a decent beam of timber across the chassis on top of the jack just to be on the safe side.

The jacking point needs to be as close to the chassis end as possible, under the engine bearer at the front.
At the back, you may struggle to find a jack with high enough lift, but close to the tie down eyes seems to work OK.
Also, a pair of mole grips clamped onto the lower flanges of the rear longerons will prevent the spreader beam from sliding backwards when you least expect it do so...

Fwiw, I use some 50 x 50 x 3 RHS, with brackets welded on to ensure that the beam is centralised, then the jack goes under a rocker in the middle.

ken

where can I find your facebook blackjack? pm me if you like

Hi Sam,how were the wheel nuts?