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Rear wheel bearings
http://international2cvfriends.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=3136		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Joolz [ June 25th, 2011, 11:21 pm ]
Post subject:  Rear wheel bearings
I've got a rear wheel bearing that's so noisy even I can't pretend not to hear it, so I'm going to have to change it soon. I know there are 2 types of bearing, the good ones, and the not so good ones, and that the not so good ones have a reputation for leaving the inner race on the stub axle if you have to remove the drum. But are they best avoided, or just a minor inconvenience that you have to put them back together?

And of the various different tools for removing the looking ring, can anybody recommend one for very occasional use(cheap), or is it quite easy to make one?
Author:  Sean [ June 25th, 2011, 11:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Rear wheel bearings
drill the ring at the flats and knock it out or you could try running a heavy hot bead with the mig inside the ring the heat loosens the corrosion and then the weld shrinks loosening the grip.
Author:  Joolz [ June 26th, 2011, 2:01 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rear wheel bearings
Thanks Sean, I shall remember to get a new retaining ring at the same time then. Is it not a problem if you drill into the hubs thread a bit?
Author:  dave 411 [ June 26th, 2011, 8:59 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rear wheel bearings
Surely you will need the tool to put the ring back in?
Author:  2CViking [ June 26th, 2011, 10:17 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rear wheel bearings
Preload on the beairng should be 34-40 kg. The reproduction bearings are very low quality, seperating when pulling the drum out. I fitted Timken on a raid 2cv, it did 20.000 clicks around Oz and came back with noisy bearings.
Don't forget to drill away the peenings. SKF or SNR are top quality, Timken no longer produced, NKE made in Austria middle range. New waterproof coming in to play, made in France. The 4x4 folks use them.
How many km per year?
Author:  Sean [ June 26th, 2011, 10:34 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rear wheel bearings
Joolz wrote:
Thanks Sean, I shall remember to get a new retaining ring at the same time then. Is it not a problem if you drill into the hubs thread a bit?


Try and avoid being a fud with the drill, start with a small 3mm hole and take it op in steps till you are almost at the treads then punch the ring inwards so it starts to collapse

dont do what i saw a couple of "Experts" doing at Most and reduce the ring to swarf and chips by butchering the whole thing with a 4lb mash hammer and a chisel :shock:

tool makes replacement easier but a bit of flat bar and an adjustable should get the nice new ring back in those nice cleaned up and greased threads.

Sean
Author:  Joolz [ June 27th, 2011, 2:00 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rear wheel bearings
Sean wrote:
... a bit of flat bar and an adjustable should get the nice new ring back in those nice cleaned up and greased threads.

That's what I wanted to hear. Which quality I go for will probably depend on the wallet at the time, I do quite low miles(kms).

Preload Viking? is that the torque on the ring?
Author:  Sean [ June 27th, 2011, 7:56 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rear wheel bearings
Ecas....the best ones or they will fall apart when your setting up the shoes.

pre load is the stub nut
Author:  2CViking [ June 27th, 2011, 8:58 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rear wheel bearings
Joolz wrote:
Sean wrote:
... a bit of flat bar and an adjustable should get the nice new ring back in those nice cleaned up and greased threads.

That's what I wanted to hear. Which quality I go for will probably depend on the wallet at the time, I do quite low miles(kms).

Preload Viking? is that the torque on the ring?



Preload or tightening torgues if you like.

Ring nut or cap nut 35 - 40 kg
44 mm nut axle stub 35 - 40 kg. Without proper tooling, this is hard to reach.
Author:  Geert [ June 27th, 2011, 8:49 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Rear wheel bearings
How is the quality of MCC bearings?
I bought some for my 2CV AZU 1974.
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