Hi all,
I recently got hold of an 30 year old Pony (greek pickup based on the Ami 6 chassis if I am correct). The shell is heavily rusted, but I had hoped that the chassis would be ok. Unfortunately, it is not the case. There is rust to be found just behind of the front axle, on the left side.
At the spot there seems to be an extra bracing welded on the outside of the chassis rails. This is intact, qith only surface rust. It is the inner part that is heavily rusted, making me worried about how much more time do I have before it collapses. I think the pics will clarify(please click to zoom):

There is also rust to be found on the undertray at the front, but I think this is easier to fix:

Buying a new chassis is out of the question, due to high shippment costs to Greece.

So, what do you think I should do? I could put a new tray on top and bottom and hope it lasts for a few more years, but I really would like to keep the car, use it and feel safe in it. Is cutting the rail at the rusty spot and welding in a replacement an option? What would you recommend?
This is my first restoration project, so any detailed instruction would be highly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

If you are good at welding then anything can be repaired. However as there are so few Ponys around you should think about a replacement chassis.

Why not have a holiday in France and come and fetch one.

why don't you take a ami 8 chassis it's (almost) the same as a ami 6,
you can bold your Pony right on it, only the pickup to the floorpanels is different but maybee it is for the better.........

I thought ami8 and ami6 floorpanels were the same?

Floorpanels are the same but the beams??? going underneath the panels towards the chassis are different.

(Out of my head) ami 6 bolted on the chassis with 4 srews in a sort of u shaped device, ami 8 1 screw like a newer 2cv.

I must admit, I can't truly remember I was just under the impression they were the same.

Finding a new chassis in Greece is not easy, especially a rust free.
I did some more work today, it seems that the two main rails of the chassis cannot be saved. The have rusted heavily at the area below the front axle. The curved inner rails that form an 'X' are in great shape though. Here's my plan:
-Cut the main rails, about 40 cm of them, at the area where the front axle is mounted.
-Keep the metal part that holds the bump stop and the holes for the bolts that support the front axle.
-Replace the rusted parts with new, weld to the chassis and weld the used bump stop back on.
Hopefully the inner rails will hold the frame in place and I will be able to weld the metal part that supports the front axle at the exact same spot, without ruining chassis alignment.
I have not done any cutting yet, so please somebody stop me if you think I am about to do something horribly wrong!

trian,
what you're proposing is possible, however I'd recommend that before you start the work, the chassis should be stripped of its axles and suspension cylinders, then placed on a flat working surface...

Re-establishing the centreline of the front axle should not be difficult, it's 1.607m - 1.609m, with the diagonal measurements 1.698m - 1.700m.

If the internal diaphragms ( curved inner rails) are in good shape, that's also going to make things easier, since they need to be (plug) welded to the upper and lower 'skins' of the chassis.

If you're replacing the top and bottom skins, I'd recommend using 1.2mm zintec sheet, which is mild steel with a light coating of zinc and can be welded 'as is'.

Also, if your chassis doesn't already have the external PO type reinforcements between the pressing which carries the front bump stop/axle bolt tubes and the first tubular crossmember, it would be worth adding them.

ken.

Btw, the distance between the centres of the cross tubes on a 2CV/Dyane type chassis is 597mm, whereas it's 667mm on an Ami 6 or Ami 8 chassis.
Which is it on yours?

Ken,
Thanks so much for the tips and useful information. I was thinking of leaving the rear axle in place, but I am planning to remove the engine/gearbox and support the frame thoroughly and as level as possible. I saw a trick with interconnected tubes filled with red wine somewhere on the net, and I am planning to do just that.
As for the suspension cylinders, I think I'll leave them as well. It already feels like I am never be able to put everything back together...

I will be replacing part of the bottom and top skins. All chassis parts from the front axle upwards are in perfect shape, almost like new. I guess it has to do with the tilting of the pony chassis or maybe it was parked for a long time facing downwards? The car was used a lot off road, so mud and leaves were caught on the lower parts and held what little humidity we have in Greece, causing corrosion.

My chassis does have the reinforcements you mention, but they have rusted a bit as well and need replacement. Only the pressing which carries the front bump stop/axle bolt tubes is in good shape.

I am going to measure the distance you mention and post it. I think it should be 667mm, as I have heard the Pony is based on the Ami 6.

Thanks again for your help, I am going to start cutting soon and post some pics, starting with the left side, which is most affected.

Hi Mate

I think you will find you got an AK 400 chassis, under your pony
Most export stuff like Pony Yugoslav Dak and others have this chassis
as its commercial spec IE large springs and slightly stronger
Different rear arms and larger wheel bearings.
Ami would probably be the best way to go foward
Pony