I guess been debated before but one more time wouldn't hurt. Rust never sleep so how do we slow it down?

I use this product as base coat brushing it on. Drying over night and then spray a second coat of butimen using my compressor. Also use it when repairing chassis etc. Find it very good and long lasting if you keep an eye on it and re-spray when needed.

i used POR 15 today - mixed views about POR 15 from other people but time will tell, as i did the 3 stage process they say to do

also i have got this rust killer, and it actually kills rust
never known rust killer to actually work until i came across this stuff

it did bleach my paint work though a tiny bit (luckily not that noticable)

I have always wanted to use POR15 but where I live it is tough to get......

Rust proofed my old ford with bitumen paint last month though and it is excellent......and self heals too....YAY

Regards,
Shane.

where abouts are you

im sure the place where i get it from could ship it out there

but be ware

POR 15 has mixed reviews

i will post in a while whats going on with mine

I don't like POR much. It is great on something like a suspension arm where you can't be bothered to clean it up really well. Ir is ultimately what it says on the tin; POR Paint Over Rust. It doesn't adhere at all well over painted surfaces or clean steel. The other issue is that it is very sensitive to UV light, it degrades badly. It is also very intolerant of being overcoated with other finishes.

For rust corrosion inside box sections Bilt hamber wax is about as good as it gets. http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosionprevention.html

If I want a shell completely stripped then acid dipping works well. It completely removes all corrosion, underseal, paint and seam sealer. This Volvo PV 544 Sport is currently in my workshop. I got it dipped to remove all the paint and rust. I then welded in new floors, transmission tunnel and repaired the crahed rear end. It then got re dipped to remove flash corrosion and electrophoretically coated. E coating is complete submersion in a vat of primer. SPL in Birmingham do it. After that I'll epoxy prime it, prep the body work, primer fill it and finally top coat it. After that I'll inject all the box sections with Bilt hamber rust preventative wax. Cheap however it isn't.

looking nice

well i did the floor of my boot, shouldnt get to much uv as my cars kept under cover....

we will see

How much does an acid dip cost?? Would it be harsh on the thin metal of a 2cv?

i recon (i dont know anything but just an i recon moment!!)

i recon it would be quite harsh, because if you have badish rust when it burns the rust away it will burn through the metal where the rust is....

may be totally wrong but just thought id say that!

so that'd show the bits that need welding then

if im right yes

i geuss thats one way of looking at it

or the weaker parts of the metal should we say, be a bit embaresing if the hole car (2cv) just burnt away in the acid

would be sad also