All the fuel gauge is doing is measuring the resistance of the sender in the tank. At one extreme it has full resitance at the other extreme none. Just wire it in and see what it reads. It's not like 2CV fuel gauges are precision instruments. If it is unacceptably out bugger about with resistors. You can try it off the car if you have a loose sender.

wiper switch 2 wires in 1 out

one of the "in" wires will come from fuses as youd expect the other goes to the motor

use the wire from fuses to your on off switch of choice, then from the other end of the on off switch goes to the motor that takes care of the switched supply.

for the park to work you need to take a 2nd wire from the live terminal on the switch to the park bit on the wiper motor but cant remember which is which
(been doing VW brakes today ....stupid using fluid that holds water and makes £200 compensator valves rot from the inside)

S
hazard switches are a 'mare of bodgery-id keep it hidden and have a teltale on the dash

I am guessing you now don't want the gauge I have arranged to collect on Sunday then.

Bertie is right in saying that the fuel gauge resistor should be connected in series with the gauge - ie: one of the supplying wires needs to be 'cut' and the resistor inserted.

(However, one of his diagrams shows a 'parallel' connection (just to demonstrate the difference?), but the other shows both gauge terminals connected together... I know that the latter is just a technical typo )

If a resistor of the same resistance value as the gauge itself is connected in series, then the gauge will then receive the 'correct' 6V from the 12V supply. However, does anyone know if the 'sender' in the tank works the same way around as the old 6V ones?! I would hope it is, but - if it ain't - then the gauge will read the wrong way around - empty when full, etc.

As I recall, Mr Chapman said he'd like it if Russ found one in the meantime.

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=1936&start=10

D.A,
well, seems to me you asked for this, so here's some technical waffle to chew on...
< http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_05.htm >

Fwiw, the later 2CV fuel gauges have 2 coils, not 3 as used in this MG unit, but their principle of operation does seem to be similar.

If a measurement of the resistance between the input terminal and earth gives a much lower reading than that of a later unit, I reckon it would be a case of 'safe rather than sorry' to step down the input voltage from 12 to 6.

It's going to be pot luck as to whether a later sender unit will have suitable resistance, however.

ken

"However, does anyone know if the 'sender' in the tank works the same way around as the old 6V ones?"

Hi, Ken. Thankzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

russ sorry if im repeating someone, but it confused me when i saw three wires out the back of wiper switch,
the white one, is a wire to a relay or something like that, if you nock that wire off, whereever you turn the wipers off they will stay, as aposed to "parking" the wire makes them "park" and the other two are obviously feeds... im sure someone has said it already in better words but if not there you go!

and upon reading the posts someones said it already

anyway if you did away with the white wire you can park them where you wish, including the boy racer aerodynamicly vertical position, not that would make much difference to the aerodynamics of a 2cv.... but im sure that wont put you off

Looking at this diagram: http://bevs.org/burton/site/wiringBurton.jpg item no. 6 shows the wiper switch and - just below it - the actual wiper motor.

The 'third' terminal in the switch appears to be the 'electronic braking' feature. What this does is to 'short-out' the wiper motor terminals when the switch is turned 'off' so that the motor comes to a halt as quickly as possible when the power is turned off - it does, literally, apply a braking force (tho' not anything mechanical).

The actual 'self-parking' would appear to be taken care of inside the wiper motor housing - it's a switch operated by a cam that will continue to supply power to the wiper motor even after the wiper switch is turned off, until the wipers are in the 'park' position and the cam opens this switch.

If you simply cut the 'third' wire, then what will likely happen is that when you switch off the wiper switch and the wipers then get to their normal park position (and the parking 'cam' opens the parking switch to fully shut down the motor), the lack of electronic braking will make the wiper motor take longer to come to a halt so that it might 'overshoot' the parking position and - voilà - it carries on going (it might almost stop - it'll hiccup and hesitate - and then get going for another wipe. And then - ditto - ad infinitum...)

Ok, that's the technical bit (especially for Ken ) , but since the wiper switch appears to be a pretty normal 2-way switch, then I reckon Russell should be able to get a 2-way version of his toggle switch quite easily - problem, hopefully, solved.

As for the hazard switch, don't go there...

I'd be tempted to try and swap that fuel gauge for a 12V one I think. At least have a go at extracting the 12V one out of the later speedo to see how easy/impossible it is to do. I think Old Nail wrote a bit about taking his apart to paint it, and it even went back together again!