Quite agree. My idea of an old Citroën is in motion since the way they go is what made them so famously far ahead of their time, 2CV included. In my book suspension at its best follows a road's undulations while the body remains undisturbed - a bucking body (and its passengers) in turn loads suspension and tyres etc etc etc. Which would mean less grip. Bigger old Citroëns sink to the floor if left for a few days, or if you depressure the hydraulics - and look very sexy when crouched low. You can even drive them like that, if on a smooth road and at very low speed.

Here's a different sort of lowered 2CV:

roof chopped & lowered!

It'll take a lot more than that to make a D*lly cool!

Unless that one's been through a crusher?

I'd just like to say that I really like the current lowered cal/rat/rust look that the 2CV customisers are doing at the moment - so much more than the flared arches/whale tails that were popular back in the 90's.

Agree with Jono - love the air ride 2CV. Envy the skills it took to build. In CZ, the cars that caught my eye where all lowered.

Keeping J standard - Derbyshire roads!

i've read how to lower the ride height, but im too scared to try it myself. i just want to lower it a little to make it sit better and so that i dont have to see the dump tubes everytime i look at the side of my car! how much work is involved?

Very little Joe, it's easy, try it.

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Seeing as the main protagonist here appears to understand suspension, I can only assume he's just looking to anonymously stir up debate, oh well here goes.

Why? 1. Because it looks good, admittedly that's a matter of personal opinion, which is why I've lowered my car rather than anyone else's.

2. Because lowering the center of gravity/mass will make a car roll less through the corners, which will keep the wheels more upright, which will give a more consistent tyre contact patch and therefore consistent grip.

Of coarse lowering your car till it sits on the bump stops without modifying any other aspect will give you a bloody awful ride, that's done purely for aesthetic reasons, at the expense of ones spine.

Put simply, I like driving fast, and there are an awful lot of people, more intelligent than I, who have put a lot of time into making 2CVs able to go around corners faster. There are a number of race series based on it! So it follows, if you want a car which goes around corners well, copy the modifications used on a race car. Admittedly most roads aren't as smooth as race tracks. But bear in mind what the standard 2CV was designed for, if I remember rightly it involved peasants in hats, a basket of eggs and a ploughed field, I don't know about you but that's not my typical day.

So if you spend your time bumbling around the French countryside, in and out of fields, and down to the market with a goat in the back, then by all means keep your suspension standard, it'll work best that way. On the other hand if the roads you frequent bear more similarities to a race track than the 'ploughed field' (and most modern roads do) then race car inspired suspension has definite advantages. I'm not recommending going quite as low or hard as a race car unless you're particularly hardcore but a compromise between race spec and standard will certainly improve realworld handling.

I can understand both views and i dont care what people do to their cars, its up to them right? but you have highlighted all of the points which i was thinking about. they height i have in mind is so the bottom of the rear wheel arch is in line with the bolt on my wheel trims, and so the front wheels are more "square" in the front wing as at the height it is at right now, it looks the wheel is too small for the car, if that makes sense?

Makes perfect sense Joe, and it really is very easy, no need to take the car apart or any thing, although it improves access if you can remove the torpedo silencer and the shock absorbers. First thing, go and wire brush the adjuster threads and then soak with plus gas, WD40 or any other preferred penetrating oil.
Remember, assuming that the suspension is set up correctly at the moment, adjust each side evenly, i.e. the two front adjuster by the same number of turns and the two rear adjusters by the same number of turns.
Also important, make sure you leave enough of the threaded rod screwed into the eyelet i.e. don't wind it out too far, I think about 15mm is the recommended minimum but I'm open to correction.