oh forgot to mention, all studs and bolts came out a breeze,

however on the right hand side, down the exhaust outlet was tons and tons of shit, not sure what the hell was going on, so shoved the hoover down there and all the other holes to hoover all the years of crap....

progress

another post ..!!

Ken suggested that while people do the barrels and pistons they might as well do the valves, now i cant find or remeber what was said, but ken did you mean re seat the valves? put new seals in?

thanks

that aside, the engine has a pretty new looking breather on, so thats good,
ive been doing some thinking as to how i can get the forced air intake around the light bar as ive been advised it will foul on it
now the two options ive come up with
1. cut and re weld the light bar, so where it comes forward around the cowling, make it go over the cowling, instead of around it
2. cut and weld the out take from cowling to a right angle, facing inwards, and some how getting it around the bar...

has anyone come up with a solution before? to save me some swearing?
its difficult to come up with a feesable solution when the engine isnt in the car!!!

but i think cutting and re welding the light bar is going to be the easiest way to do it

thoughts?

Wait for somebody clever to answer before wrecking your engine based on this, but;



The only picture I could find of it. From what I remember, there are three terminals on the back of the solenoid (Solenoid, relay? Same thing?) stuck onto the starter motor. I wired the negative of the battery to a solid ground, I think I wired it up to one of the engine/gearbox studs. The positive went to the large (Copper?) terminal on the right of the solenoid, in that picture. Then to operate the starter motor, I wedged a screwdriver in between the left terminal, and the smaller bottom terminal. However, I thought the purpose of the solenoid was to deal with the large currents going through the starter motor, while being triggered by a small current that wouldn't fry the ignition switch. It worked for me, but lots of sparks came from the screwdriver, leading me to think I probably misread my wiring diagram!

Wait for someone to confirm / ridicule that though!

Alternatively, crank start it!

bollocka to crank starting it it probably hasnt run in about a million years

thanks george
i "just" want to wire it up, and then simply touch the live start to the battery and go, no sparks like you had!!

i think i could probably work it out

i know the power lead goes straight from the battery to the big terminal thingy, then theres two other wires, one yellow and one blue? or both yellow? cant remeber, just which one does what is what im keen, and need to know, i assume one is a live, and the other is to trigger the solonoid to start it..



makes sense?
or am i talking crap

is that a new manifold or did you clean the old one you had up?
im going to use your idea and strap the hole lot to an upside down palet, so it doesnt jump off and run away!
well my aim is to have the mini service complete by the end of the weekend, and hopefully by monday fire it up, although will have to pinch the starter off my car,

how did you get the (techincal terms escape me at this time of day) bit where the plug goes so shiny and nice looking? mine is corroded,
i know when i do the barrel and piston's ill have a nice shiny new barrel in,

oh im talking crap
off to bed

No, I'm talking rubbish, on reflection I think I bridged the right terminal to bottom terminal with screwdriver, the right is 12V+, so that's providing the oomph for the solenoid...? I can't remember what colours the wires are, they're sitting in a sorry heap in the corner of my shed awaiting attention.

Oh I don't know, I haven't slept for 2 days, wait for Ken or Sean or someone!

The manifold is the original, I cleaned it up with a wire brush on a grinder, and covered it in some 'super dooper high temperature exhaust paint". I don't believe it'll do much, but I wanted it to all look shiny for a few minutes after it's finished.



I copied it from Ken, but it's a great idea!

well ill also try high temp exhaust stuff too!

oh and one more thing to add, oil pipes look pretty buggered and rusted away, going to put some stainless onces on as i happen to have some i ordered to put on my car but never got around to doing it, but will need to get some more for my car as my cars ones arent brillinat but on reflection no where near as bad as the ones on this engine!!

The cylinder head? I cooked them (Gas mark 5...?) when I was replacing the cracked valve guide, which got rid of most of the oil. They weren't too bad, but as they are aluminium, I would have thought a toothbrush and some petrol / paraffin or something would get the worst of it off. The rocker covers, were just cleaned up a bit and painted black.

Good luck!

Rid of the oil? I'll have to do that when my mum isn't around !!!

What Ken and others meant is remove the valves, lap them in again and fit new valve guide oil seals, IIRC the seals that come in the kit aren't highly reccomended and ECAS sell some separately.

Ok thanks Russ

I saw that, so going to get the higher quality ones,
Thanks