Errr,
doesn't it takes a bit more than simply connecting the unit to an ignition coil to reprogram a 123?
Don't remember anything about this from when I did the proofreading for the English version of the 133 instructions, only that the black and yellow wires weren't to be connected to the coil to power it up until after the 'static timing' setup had been carried out.

ken.
( p.s. If I did ever decide that 'points + Boyer Bransden' didn't work just fine for my cars, I'd probably go for a Lumenition setup. )

i doubt a new 123 could be any more faulty than a brand new condensor i got last week... that was a day after fitting it...

Joe,
Lumenition is an opto-electronic system, using an infra red emitter and detector as a switch and it retains the ignition advance mechanism.

123 uses a magnetic system (Hall effect) and controls the ignition advance electronically, or it does until it's cooked by over-voltage or a cold bath...

ken

Got Lummie on my car.
It was fitted 13/14 [?] years ago.
I've never touched it since.....although Ken re-set the timing for me when he rebuilt my engine [new barrels,heads & pistons] last year.
I seem to recall reding somewhere that 123 does'nt like being "jump started" with another battery & jump leads .....I dunno if its true.
But I've neve had any probs with my Lummie system.

T.

right...

well i certainly dont drive through any deepwater, and touch wood... i havent had any problems with my battery! this cars got a lovely electronic voltage regulator which so far hasnt fallen off onto my now non existant swan neck and melted... so i definately havent and dont expect any battery problems!

i am thinking 123 purely because there are less moving parts still left on the car, as you loose the whole advanced weights set up with 123!

Pops is the car or yer dad?
if its your dad why not ask him which he would prefer?

Sean

Points.

+1. Can't understand why anyone has a problem with them, myself.

[dhquote="Gay_Joe"]

i am thinking 123 purely because there are less moving parts still left on the car[/quote]

Much less, when it breaks!

I've got points and a homemade Boyer-Bransen lookalike (from a Maplin kit) on mine. Simple, and even if I'd replaced the points at the time as well, the whole lot would have only cost me £25.

It's been on there 6 months now, and I ran one on my previous car for a few years. No problems at all with either of them, but if it ever does fail, it would only take a couple of minutes of messing around with connections at the coil to set it back to standard.

in fairness joe, this is one of those topics, where you will always get mixed reviews and opinions, a bit like rust preventers, everyone has there fair share, like i said, i prefer points because its simply all ive used and i havent had 123 or lum, and for the price of 123 i dont want to try and see if i like it if you get me
if it were me making the decision? well i started a topic a while back about the same thing, i decided to stick with points. why did you replace your condenser? had the old one packed up? did you replace both points and condenser at the same time??
if your car is frying condensers why wouldnt it fry a 123?? if you see my angle,

JUST a suggesiton so dont hunt me down