ok will do, with regards to draining, erm, how?!
i have a plate on the chassis so i cant get access to bottom unless i went via cross box?

also gl4, so i buy that stuff, any percific more details to know about befor ei find theres a million different gl4's?

james the drain plug is centre of the box and just behind the bellhousing IIRC all proper undertrays had an access hole for the drain plug

GL4 is the specification of the type of oil, what you need is 80EP which is the thickness and ep is "extra pressure".

think you need one of theseshould help you to sort most stuff out yerself

Sean

i have a haynes manual, but i sort of forget i have it and find it easier to ask on here if im honest, should really get off my arse and get the hanyes manual out, most of the time in fairness to myself i get a more easier answer to understand as the haynes manual is a bit, erm, ambitios, like with kingpins, it says, just unscrew the hub nut, 3 hours later, me and sam finally got it off!

and the one on the sides a level so you cant put to much in, right?
is there a similar tool to outboard lower end's (geaboxes) as in an outboard you pump the oil in through the bottom hole and then when it poors out the top then you know your there, and you put the top one in and remove the bottom pump to put screw in

look at the pictures

and whats the differance to haynes having a picture of "undo the hub nut"
and one of us typing "undo the hub nut" by all means ask if somethings un clear

so how do outboards overcome gravity?

theres a picture in haynes about how to do it

Sean

basically, because its a sealed unit (well in theroy) air tight and water tight, when you take the 2 screws out, one at the top and one at bottom, and you pump oil in through bottom, and when it comes out the top you put screw in, then you take pump out, gravity naturally takes a bit out the lower end, but 'cos of the lack of air replacing the fluid coming out, not much comes out and normally one i squick enough with the screw you loose next to nothing, but we all make cock ups, and end up with oil allover your shoes
will have a bed time read of haynes manual, i got one of these for my birthday also
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Restore-Citroen-2CV-Your-Step-b-Porter-LinBr-/280570575784?pt=UK_Books_maps_GL&hash=item41534f3ba8
which is brilliant, but its too nice to use in a mechanical situation, grubby fingers, you know the situation, so that sits beside the bed!
and with reagards to undoing the nut, the haynes manual does give you tips on how to remove once the nut is stuck, im not suggesting that i would go how to undo a nut and you to go with a similar response like the haynes manual, what i meant is the haynes manual doesnt give you many clues when you do what it says and the f***ing thing is solidly on!!
but just unscrew it and all will be well?

first bit of each chapter gives you the torque settngs for the main fasteners


hub nut 288ftlb= F**king tight!

Sean

oh really, well im going to look tonight for axel bolts etc need to do those while i have the car on stands next week to do the suspension

rightyo, now i have time on my hands, im going to splash out and buy some oil and pull my finger out and finally change the oil in the box,
now i havent looked under the car, but i can imagine where the bolt is, and its a 17mm? not that that is relevant,
anyway, that aside, so once ive taken the too plugs out (drain and level) i obviously need to proceed to put the new oil in, now, do i need to take the car for a burn before draining? like with engine oil?
so anyway how do i get it back in? as mentioned in outboards gearboxes you can pump it in, is it a similar ball game on a 2cv box?? if not how?
(ps not at home so haynes manual isnt available at the moment,)

and so i want to buy gl4 stuff, (im sure itll say in the haynes manual) and ill get some soon,
whats the capacity? i geuss i will need about 2 litres at the very most?

It's always worth warming up the engine first - gearboxes don't get anything like as hot, but the oil will still be less viscous after a 'burn up' (relatively speaking...) so should come out more easily.

The drain hole is underneath - you will find it. Can't remember the size.

I guess GL4 and 80EP are the specs to go for (but do confirm), and my personal recommendation is to chose a known brand of semi or fully-synth oil. Viking suggests changing the gearbox oil every time the engine is done, but I suspect most people won't bother doing this - I know I don't. Therefore, treat your gearbox to the best stuff you can find.

Again, I can't remember the capacity, but I suspect it's only a litlre or so, so even the best oil won't set you back much.

Set the car on level ground, and remove jacks and/or stands if used. The fill point is on the side - I think the driver's, towards the front of the car on the gearbox casing - ooh, a third of the way up? (Forgive me if I don't go out in t'rain and wind to check...)

The fill hole is also the level guide. Squeeze in most of a litre bottle (if 1L is the capacity - check!) and then slow down - add a little at a time until it's obvious you've reached the plug hole level - it'll start to trickle back out. Resist the urge to squeeze in a bit more and slam the plug in 'for good measure'! Citroen have worked out the optimum amount for us...

'Because she's worth it....'

If you're as cack handed as I am, you can't squeeze a bit more in and slam the plug in. By the time I've dropped the plug a few times and got EP80 dribbling into my armpits the level is back to the plug again. I *think* it's 0.9 litres.