I know what you mean Russ, and they look wrong to me because of the lack of clearance between front wheels & arch meaning that to the eye (mine at least) there's a conflict between the radius of the two. Actually the wheels appear to be up inside the arches and yours kept a sense of proportion because there's still a discernable gap between them and whilst the gap is narrowed, it still keeps the character of the original car. That probably sounds like bollox but often putting what's inside your head into words is!

I find that aspect of it quite pleasing, which is why I prefer to keep using 15" wheels instead of the 13" wheels on that car. It's the way the shell looks unsupported at the front, the wings and bonnet look wrong to me. I'd like to do a channeled car, but I'd want it so the sills were dragging on the ground constantly, which would basically destroy the car quickly and would be useless for normal driving, but purely to have the lowest 2cv possible. It's something I could only do if I had enough spares and time to build something that would have to be scrapped after a few weeks.

Oh well there you go - I thought yours looked better, but that's exactly what I like about the A series scene. If it looks right to the individual then that's all that matters rather than the rivet counting ethos of the MG club for instance.

I love yank cars with a passion - I kind of like the dropped 50's american cars which looked better than the stock examples. I prefer stock 60's cars to customised and I also prefer stock 70's muscle cars, yet I love to see an in intake through a hole in the bonnet! The thin skinny white walled tyres so beloved of the trick gas suspensioned cars owned by the gangsta crowd looked right on certain oldsmobils but wrong on a chevy. But that's just me!!

Thx Roy, thats my little beast, hopefully to be back on the road very soon! only one panel left to mod...

This is true, channelling allows you to ride at normal ride height whilst still having an aesthetically lower look, more or less as the body is lowered on the chassis...

The easiest/most-common/seemingly-less-difficult way is to weld the floors in "at the top" of the sills as opposed to the factory "at the bottom" of the sills. This drops the car 50mm, whilst still leaving clearance for the engine under the bonnet.

I ended up with 50mm at the front and about 65-70mm at the back it can be hard to find a reference point on a rusted shell after the floors are cut out @ 50mm i modified:
- Front inner fenders, cut 50mm off the bottom of them, folded a lip.
- Bumper bar mounts, fabricated new.
- Bonnet catch.
- Lower box section, folded a new , which I then made recesses to accommodate the bump stop arms at both locks (maybe overkill).
- Welded in floors at the top of the sills
- Rear bump stops, repositioned.
- Steering column, added a universal joint from a GS
- Seat mounts, ass on the floor .

If you go more, say 120mm the height of the chassis, then you start running into more Clearance issues in and around the engine.
- Alternator is the first hit.


- Foot peddles & master cylinder will need to be moved up.
- Front suspension cross member.
- Fire wall on gearbox mount.
- Lower box section.

I think 2cv looks so nice lowered and with mild channelling it can stay practical on normal roads. They only start to look strange when they are Channelled more than 50mm and people are sitting in them, head in the roof.

I plan on taking mine on the next Raid Australia rough roads here we come

.... i should add some pics as reference...

Cheers

Harley

Haha love it, keep dreaming man, as I said ''at the back of a truck''

On the way to the world meting in most (CZ), I was with the raid Dracula as strekte from northern Poland, on the small roads again including ukraine to romania and to most, without problems, only change that was made was to raise car 7cm.
So a challend car and bad road can easily go together

so if i want to go down 2 inches it is fairly simple? Been looking at my manuals and they make it look tricky.

Lowering the back is dead easy - just buy a bigger sub!

It's very easy, just jack it up until the wheels are off the ground and unwind the tie rods about 10mm.

thanks will do that, need to buy a jack 1st! Will need to learn where the kingpins are and how to grease them also!