ok so im painting a wing, well a prefseional (Spelling!) is, and i was wondering what is hould paint on the inside of the wing, or should i wax oil it etc etc

ideas please

thanks

James, if you're worried about spelling(s),then click the spell check at the top of the IE screen.

ie? as internet explorer?

i dont use that, as i use firefox and chrome, and im on chrome atm

Better still, Firefox has a built-in spell checker...

hmm

maybe i should just learn to spell better?

As an ex-teacher, I couldn't possibly comment...

Anyways, back to the main topic! If by 'inside' you mean the underside where the wheels are, then I'd certainly make sure that any rust was properly taken care off, and then have it primed with whatever you are using on the top surface below the finish coat. Then use the best underseal you can get your hands on - Dinitrol (spelling?!) seems highly rated, or Waxoyl itself - which should be allowed to dry before driving in the wet. Once it becomes a waxy layer, it is pretty durable, although you may want to top it up every couple of years or so if it looks as though it's being eroded by water spray.

I'd also brush a good layer of Waxoyl on to the contact points between the wings and the body, and simply wipe off the excess neatly once the wings are bolted down. Ditto with the rear wings - brush Waxoyl on to both sides of the decor strip as well as the inner and outer wing flanges. Then spray additional stuff underneath after it's all tightened up - it should seal the tiny gaps nicely, or at least it'll coat any parts that water can get to.

Again, there's the 'boxy' part of the front wings immediately behind the wheels - this is a water trap. Coat the part of the body bulkhead that will be hidden by the wing in Waxoyl - it won't be seen,. so brush it on thick. Ditto inside the 'box' itself. Part of the side body panel - the one in front of the front doors - will also be covered by the front wings when fitted; coat this too - it won't be seen, but rot starts there big time.

When I do that part of my own 2CV, I'm considering sticking a thin rubber strip along that edge to follow the wing contact points before the front wings are replaced so that I remove the metal-to-metal (well, paint-to-paint) contact. Anybody have any comments on this?

Oh, and if by 'inside' you mean the inner wing adjacent to the engine, then prime and top coat in body colour! If necessary, you can brush or spray a bead of Waxoyl/Dinitrol along the top edges if they look as tho' they are susceptible.

sorry i wasnt clear

im painting the back wing left

its a brand spanker so no rust as of yet

its got the black stuff on, i was thinking simply slapping wax oil on, but if it need a primer ill ask the guy to primer both sides

i can get hold of wax oil,

next, do i warm it so its more runny paint it on and leave it for a bit?

id noticed today a hole in my front wing in the boxey section, its rusted a tad so ill sort that out soon !

I'm guessing that the 'black stuff' is a type of underseal? In which case leave it as it is (I was only suggesting primer if is was bare metal.)

Wait until the wing is painted, and then Waxoyl the underside, paying particular attention to the return lip along the bottom. Brush the Waxoyl along the very sharp edge too, and go slightly over on the 'outside' - the area facing the ground that you won't see.

If you are brushing it on, then use it neat. Don't forget to coat the flanges that bolt together. I'd also be tempted to finally give it a spray of Waxoyl (thinned a bit) underneath after the wing is fitted. Thinned Waxoyl will get everywhere that water will get to - it should get drawn into seams etc by capillary action - so this should provide the final barrier.

ok thanks

do i need to heat it up to get it slightly more runny

as i remeber it being sort of, thick?

Shake it up really well if it's been sitting for a while.

If brushing, no need to thin. If spraying, then a combination of heat and thinning will almost certainly be needed (BEAR IN MIND THAT BY 'HEAT' I DON'T MEAN A NAKED FLAME... The usual method is to plop the whole can in to a larger container of hot water.)

For large accessible panels such as the under wings, chassis panels/rails, etc., I thin it as little as possible so's it goes on as thick as possible - these are the areas that'll also get most water-spray erosion. Of course, you can build up as many layers as you wish - I'd allow each to dry for at least one warm day before applying the next.

However, for 'hidden' components such as the insides of the long chassis box sections, inside door apertures and up inside the actual door window sections themselves, I tend to thin it a fair amount, making it pretty 'watery'. The reason I do this is so's the stuff gets everywhere inside these sections, in particular getting drawn in to every weld seam and join. These frames are made by rolling or folding sheet metal to make the round section - where the ends join is the most vulnerable part. Waxoyl in these hollow sections aren't going to suffer erosion or wear like exposed panels do, and I think it's more important that every little seam is treated. I like being able to blast the spray in through one opening, and then see the Waxoyl mist 'geysering' out all the far end - that way I'm pretty sure it's all coated inside.